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Laid-back Lefkada's coastline.
Laid-back Lefkada's coastline.
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Seduced by the scenic sirens

John Casham
8/ 4/2008

AMAZING panoramic views. This is what the brochure said. And there's no question the accompanying photographs looked enticing.

But we all know that sometimes the holiday reality doesn't always live up to the high expectations. Not so with our secluded hilltop villa on the Greek island of Lefkada.

From dawn to dusk the views were spectacular. Early-morning coffee on our bedroom balcony found us catching breathtaking sunrises over the neighbouring Ionian island of Meganissi and the Greek mainland. Fast forward a few hours and we gazed down from our fabulous pool on to a shimmering sea dotted with yachts and fishing boats bobbing their way in and out of the harbour at Syvota Bay.

And later, as the sun set over the hillside, the silhouettes of nearby islands assumed a mystical air behind the darkening sea as we sipped pre-dinner ouzos and searched for signs of dolphins in the water below (we were, after all, at a place called, for good reason, Dolphin Point).

Sadly, the dolphins eluded us the whole time of our idyllic one-week stay, but the scenery will be framed in our memories.

We had reached Villa Althea at Dolphin Point in under an hour from Preveza airport on the mainland - linked to Lefkada by a causeway and swing bridge. Our Travelux representative supplied us with detailed instructions on how to get to the villa in the far south of the island.

Apprehensive

We were a little apprehensive as we made our way up a rough agricultural track from the harbour village of Syvota Bay - perhaps not quite the approach expected to a luxury villa. But any misgivings vanished as we pulled up at electronically-operated gates and looked down a sweeping, impressive paved driveway towards the sea - we knew immediately it would lead to somewhere special. And we were not disappointed.

Villa Althea, standing proudly amid landscaped gardens, had everything we needed for a dream holiday. It oozed comfort, quality and space, with two double en suite bedrooms on separate levels and an open-plan living, dining and kitchen area with French windows on to a verandah.

Outside we could take our pick of sunny or shady patios, a flower-covered gazebo retreat, or sun loungers by the pool. There was a courtyard with table for al fresco dining away from the sun and even a path winding down to the sea and a private bathing platform.

All this and views to die for - it was hard to pull ourselves away from the villa. But that would have meant missing out on the rest of Lefkada. The island owes its name to the steep white cliffs on its southernmost cape, Lefkata (lefko meaning white).

Legend has it that the Greek poet Sappho, after being jilted by her lover, threw herself into the sea from here. Now it's a popular spot for hang gliding.

Lefkada, also known as Levkas, is the fourth largest of the Ionian islands after Zakynthos, Kefalonia and Corfu and is the only one which can be reached by road from the mainland. It is believed to have been connected to the mainland by an isthmus, but in the 7th century BC the Corinthians excavated the sandbanks to create a shipping lane.

Unspoiled

It is a mountainous island, still largely undeveloped and unspoiled by mass tourism, but nowhere is more than an hour away by car. The eastern coast slopes gently down to the sea, while on the west coast there are rugged cliffs, rocky shores and long windswept beaches.

The island's capital, Lefkada town in the north, has a Venetian castle and a new marina with berths for 650 yachts. The town is built in a marsh and houses have wooden upper storeys to withstand earthquakes (a powerful undersea quake in August 2003 measuring 6.4 on the Richter scale destroyed a number of homes and sent tourists fleeing to the mainland).

Our villa near the southern tip of Lefkada was just a few minutes up from Syvota Bay, a small harbour village with several tavernas lining the waterfront.

A week gave us just enough time to try them all - and especially enjoy freshly-caught fish with a simple Greek salad and decent local wine. Sheltered Syvota is a popular base for organised yachting holidays around the Ionian islands and the sometimes sleepy village bursts into life when the boats sail in for a change of crews.

Twenty minutes up the coast we explored Lefkada's bustling main resort of Nidri, with views across to nearby islands including Skorpios, famous home of the late tycoon Aristotle Onassis. A statue on the promenade honours the man who brought jobs and wealth to the area.

Popular

Boat trips leave Nidri regularly to the neighbouring islands including Meganissi, but it's popular to hire a little motor boat - complete with canopy to provide shade from the sun - and spend the day seeking out your own little piece of heaven.

A few minutes in the opposite direction from Syvota is the harbour resort of Vassiliki, which really comes to life in July and August when it is recognised as one of the windsurfing capitals of Europe. The wide and sheltered bay is noted for its afternoon wind known as `Eric'.

Vassiliki harbour, lined with pavement cafes, restaurants and ice cream shops, is a popular stopping-off point for those holiday yachts which set off from Syvota. It is also just a one-hour ferry ride away from Kefalonia - a favourite destination for day trippers. Boats also leave to the island of Ithaca.

As our week at Villa Althea came to an end, and we headed up the coast and through Lefkada town to the airport, we reflected on how much we had enjoyed our stay - but realised there was still so much of the island we had not had time to see.

We agreed we had to return... but accepted that staying at Villa Althea again would present us with the same dilemma we had encountered this time: why tear yourself away from those wonderful views?

FACTFILE: Travelux is an independent tour operator offering more than 50 luxury villas and apartments, all with private swimming pools, on Lefkada and Meganissi, as well as hotel accommodation in the mainland mountain retreat of Zagoria. They provide a wide choice of options that can be mixed and matched including fly-drive, two-centre holidays, walking tours and boat charter. Prices for 2008 start from £758 for a week in a three-bedroom apartment at Fisherman's Retreat in Lefkada. For an additional £355 per person, Travelux can also arrange flights from Manchester (Sundays) plus car or boat hire and a welcome pack including maps, hamper and walking booklet. John Casham stayed at the two-bedroom Villa Althea at Dolphin Point, where prices start from £2,234 per week in low season, rising to £2,497 in July and August. Check the Travelux website, traveluxgreece.co.uk , or phone 01580 765000.


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