The Dinner Detective Dines at:San Carlo, King Street West
The Dinner Detective Dines at:San Carlo, King Street West
The Dinner Detective21/ 7/2005
UNLIKE restaurant reviewers on some newspapers, the Dinner Detective eats out incognito and always pays for the meal. That way the Dinner Detective gets the same treatment as the readers, giving you an honest view of the service you might receive.
DESPITE its tucked-away location, San Carlo was doing a good
trade when I visited.
The large restaurant was busy enough to make me wonder if my
companion and I would get a table without having booked.
There are four San Carlo restaurants in England and a card placed
on each table before we arrived listed comments from critics,
including AA Gill hailing it as "the best Italian restaurant
outside London". The décor is plain and clean, the atmosphere
friendly and the open-plan kitchen a tribute to traditional Italian
cooking with jars of tomatoes on view and a flaming pizza oven in
the middle.
Confident we would enjoy ourselves, we ordered a bottle of the
chianti reserva (£17.50) and turned our attention to the extensive
menu whichmade for difficult decision-making because of the number
of delicious sounding treats on offer.
I opted for the prosciutto et melone (£6.75) to start, which was
the best example of this dish I have ever tasted, while my opposite
number went for the fresh oysters (£6.95) which were pronounced
delicious.
The first hint of service trouble came quickly however, as we each
ordered a glass of prosecco to accompany the first course, which
only arrived when we were almost finished and after we had asked
passing staff for it twice.
But when the food finally arrived, it justified any accolade which
could be given to it. My fagottini san carlo (£7.95) was a real
treat, made with tasty parma ham and a deliciously rich mushroom
sauce. The tomato garlic bread (£3.95) was excellent and crisp and
made the perfect side dish. My companion went for the traditional
Roman dish of saltimbocca alla romana (£10.75), with zucchini
fritti (£2.45) and French fries (£1.75) to accompany it. Sadly,
after the main courses the problems really set in. We waited 15
minutes without being offered a dessert menu before we asked a
passing member of staff for one.
And after we had decided to try the tiramisu con savoiardi (£4.50)
and the panna cotta (£4.60) we had a long conversation while
waiting for someone to return and then eventually had to catch
someone's eye and ask them to take our order.
The desserts were delicious, another example of excellent authentic
Italian cuisine, so it was unfortunate that after we had finished
we had to ask for the bill three times before it was found and
brought to our table.
I would like to return to San Carlo as the food was excellent. But
the bill, with service included, came to £91.08, which is a bit
steep for any meal that was not a wholly enjoyable experience.
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